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This custom designed "Ametek" pivot is made from inch and a half square tubing with machined washers, nuts, and a half inch pipe fitting welded on to it.   The idea came to me after a response to a user of one of my adaptor plates.  That is the reason for the six and a half inch spacing of the 3/8-16 nuts that are welded on the side.  Because of that spacing this pivot mount can be also used to mount a "standard" automobile alternator.  The problem with using a "standard" car alternator is that they "consume" energy until they spin fast enough  to "cut in" and produce energy.  For me this was about 11-13 mph. 

After making several of these, I've realized the best way to figure the length of the "spacer" pipes is to cut them the same length as the body of the motor. It is best that they are square at the ends.  This can be done with a hacksaw and file or better with a pipe cutter.  You could also go to the hardware store and buy pre-cut pieces of pipe.  That is where I bought the 3/8-16 "All thread", washers, lock washers, and nuts.  The "All thread" should be about one inch longer than the spacer pipes.  A washer at the pivot end of the spacer pipe gives a larger surface area to seat against.  I would recommend using "Nylock" nuts.  When I can't find them, I use a dab of "Permatex" gasket sealer on the threads.  This never fully hardens so I still take it apart later, and is weather proof.

Speaking of weather proofing.  In this picture please note the white washer looking piece on the front of the motor.  This is actually the side of a milk jug that I cut as a spacer/gasket to go between the steel adaptor plate and aluminum motor face.  I cut the hole for the shaft small and forced it on.  This actual motor had been in service for many months ( you can tell by the rust on the nut and end of the shaft).   A dab of silicone sealant where the wires come thru, a piece of duct tape over the rear bearing hole, and a good coat of paint finish up my weather proofing.  The four screws that bolt onto the front of the Ametek motor can either be 10-32 (inch) or M5 (metric).  This is the only fastener that is interchangeable between the inch and metric systems.  I prefer the metric socket head cap screws.

In this picture you can see that I used a red "Tupperware" style lid for my gasket/seal.

I calculated that a windmill with a 59" diameter propeller should use a 280 square inch area tail mounted on a 36" pipe.  I put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the top of the mast prior to mounting the pivot and a touch on the side were the bottom edge will rub.  Ideally the weight of the tail should balance the weight of the motor and blades.  

Here is a link to instructions to a good mast erection.  It just might give you some good ideas.  http://www.bergey.com/Products/XL1.Tilt.IM.1.pdf

Many people have asked about purchasing a tail.  A tail is an easy thing to make.  Mine is just a piece of plywood sawn to 18" x 24" with some angled cuts.  I used some electric conduit straps and carriage bolts to fasten it to the 1/2" pipe.  Also the shaft adaptor is called a "motor arbor" and is available at your local "Ace" hardware store or online at www.harborfreight.com.  These come in two different sizes 1/2" and 5/8" depending on the diameter of your motor shaft.