My Fisher & Paykel re-wiring steps

	It is my understanding that Fisher & Paykel washing machine motors come in three different models. A 60s, a 80s, and a 100s. They all have the same mounting dimensions. I believe the 60s is the newest model with 36 coils (larger with more turns of wire). The 80s and 100s both have 42 coils, with the 80s having more turns of smaller wire and the 100 s having less turns of larger wire. All the motors are originally wired for three phase input/output and can easily be re-wired. Since the numbers 36 and 42 are both divisible by six, the following instructions can be used for all models.
	After reading the wonderful 70 page manual from EcoInnovation that comes with each motor that I have, I've decided on a star configuration and thought I would document my steps here to show how easy it really is. Taking a permanent marker and starting from the push-on terminal strip, I've marked the coils counter-clockwise from one to six, as shown.
	This marking method is repeated from one to six all the way around the stator.
	This next step is the most difficult. The rest is easy from here. With a small set of wire cutters, cut the wire that goes from coil number one to coil number four, half way between the two coils. Next cut the wire that goes from coil number two to coil number five. Again cutting the wire halfway between the two coils. Next cut the wire that goes from coil number three, to coil number six.
	Here you can see where I've cut the wires and straightened them so they "stand up". By the way, you can save these pictures and view them larger on your computer. Please respect my rights and do not distribute them.
	The wires are shellac/varnish coated and must be stripped of that coating to make good contact for soldering. There are many ways to remove this coating. One method is to use a torch and burn the coating off, followed by a rag to wipe the ash. Another, is to use a knife to scrape the coating. I like using some plain old sandpaper. I simply wrap the wire and gently pull. A close inspection should show how well you have done. Some "ScotchBrite" or abrasive cloth should also work. This needs to be done to all the wires after you cut them.
	The next step is to connect the wires from coils one, two, and three together. This pattern will be repeated all the way around the stator.
	This also includes the last three wires that are in the small clips by themselves. Be careful, those wires are shorter than the ones that you have cut. (Note: I noticed an open area between coil number three coil and number four and drilled a small 1/8" hole in the flange to provide a "tie-down" that will show up in my later pictures.)
	I went to the hardware store and bought 2 feet of stranded 8-4 wire to complete my wiring. By wiring in this method, what I am doing is connecting two sets of coils in series and then wiring them in parallel with the rest of the coils in that phase. This first wire will be the common for all the phases. Here I have formed the wire to fit tightly against the short flange near the coils. You need to make a "bare" spot along the wire to solder the twisted wire ends to it.
	To do a neat job, you need to pre-form the wires before you solder them in place. I've found that with this size of wire it is best to have a 100 watt or larger soldering iron to do a good job. Here you can see that I have formed the wire and marked it for the areas that need to be bare for the next set of connections. I started first soldering to the push-on terminal next to the number one coil. This will be connected to all the number six coils.
	Here you can see my progress with the common and first phase wiring. I used a short piece of wire as a "twist-tie" to hold the wires in place. This is threaded thru a small hole in the flange near coil number three. This was done prior to the placing of the first 8 gage wire. If you missed this, I'm sure some hot melt glue would also work well.
	The center "push-on" terminal gets wired next. This gets connected to all the number five coils. You can see that the bare spots in the main wires are staggered so they won't short against each other.
	Here is my finished re-wired stator. I've replaced my temporary wire twists with some good looking plastic wire ties. A good coat or two of clear spray urethane to protect the stator is recommended.
	This is a picture of my prototype F&P pivot. I am about to go into production with the next model which will have the ability of mounting two F&P units on it.
	Here is the solid model of the dual pivot. If you are interested in this pivot or a F&P motor, please send me an email.